Patek Philippe’s new Cubitus watch has sparked controversy among watch enthusiasts. The complicated ref. 5822P-001 model, worn by soccer star Zlatan Ibrahimovic at a recent match, is part of the brand’s first new collection in 25 years.
The Cubitus was a personal project of Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern, inspired by his desire for a square-cased watch. The design takes inspiration from the Nautilus of 1976, but some critics have accused the dial layout of being poorly balanced. Despite the criticism, Stern remains confident in the Cubitus.
“The haters are mostly people who have never had a Patek and never will,” he said. “What counts for me is the result. And I’m confident about the Cubitus because I have a good nose and a lot of professionals around me who told me it would work.”
Stern rejected claims that the Cubitus is a replica of the discontinued Nautilus ref.
5711, stating that it has its own identity.
Cubitus sparks mixed reactions
He acknowledged a “slowdown” in the watch market but refrained from calling it a “crisis.”
The Cubitus collection currently consists of three references: the flagship complicated ref.
5822P-001 in platinum, the time-only ref. 5821/1A-001 in steel, and the time-only ref. 5821/1AR-001 in two-tone steel and rose gold.
Some watch enthusiasts have compared the Cubitus to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1, a watch widely regarded as a design masterpiece. The Lange 1 uses the golden ratio and the rule of thirds to arrange its dial elements, while the Cubitus dial follows an off-kilter triangle that divides the dial into areas of apparently random size and shape.
A well-known watch designer commented on the Cubitus, saying, “The layout of the elements on the dial is not pleasing. It does not feel balanced.” He also noted that the day-wheel uses a stretched Eurostile type, a questionable decision in graphic design. Despite the initial shock and criticism, some journalists suggest that watch enthusiasts may need time to get used to the Cubitus design.
As with any new release, opinions are divided, and only time will tell how the Cubitus will be received in the long run.
