Patek Philippe has unveiled its first new watch collection in 25 years, the Cubitus. The collection made its debut in Munich and currently consists of three models: the flagship complicated ref. 5821/1A-001 in platinum, the time-only ref.
5821/1A-001 in steel, and the time-only ref. 5821/1AR-001 in two-tone steel and rose gold. The Cubitus design takes inspiration from the iconic 1976 Nautilus, created by Gerald Genta.
It features an angular case and a horizontally embossed dial pattern, baton-style hands, and applied indices that echo elements of the Nautilus ref. 5712/1A. Thierry Stern, the president of Patek Philippe, expressed his desire for a square watch in the brand’s collections.
He stated, “There were many ways we could have designed the new watch, but in the end, I wanted a design that aligned with the DNA of the Nautilus and Aquanaut.”
The Cubitus collection took six years to develop, with four of those years dedicated to its design. Despite its 45-millimeter case (measured diagonally across an octagonal shape), the time and date version is just 8.3 millimeters thick, while the model with complications measures 9.6 millimeters.
Patek Philippe introduces Cubitus collection
The collection has already attracted attention from celebrity watch enthusiasts. Zlatan Ibrahimovic, a former AC Milan player, was spotted wearing the complicated ref. 5822P-001 at a Monza vs.
Milan match in Italy. This model features an outsize date display, a running seconds indicator, and a combination day-of-the-week and moon phase display. However, the Cubitus collection has also generated controversy among watch enthusiasts.
Critics have debated the balance of the dial layout on the complicated ref. 5821/1A-001, with some questioning the design choices made by Patek Philippe. Ben Clymer of Hodinkee noted in his review that “this is not a love letter,” expressing reservations about the watch’s design.
Many have attempted to make sense of the watch through psychological theories and historical contextualization, but the consensus remains that the Cubitus has not been universally well-received. Despite the mixed reactions, Patek Philippe plans to expand the Cubitus collection with additional versions in the future. As the brand’s newest offering, the Cubitus marks a significant departure from the Nautilus and Aquanaut lines, signaling a new era in Patek Philippe’s sports watch design.
